Monthly Archives: December 2011

I don\’t know if you\’ll be able to help with this, but I have a problem with water seeping into my house. I live outside of Denver, and it has snowed a lot here. I noticed last night that there are a couple spots in my bedroom where the carpet is wet. Before I bought my house, my bedroom was remodeled from an old one car garage, and it against the most outside wall. My house is also an a-frame house, and the most run-off from the melting snow is on that side of the house. It isn\’t along the whole wall, just some parts of it. My guess is that there just isn\’t enough weather proofing along that wall on the outside or inside of the house. What can I do to make sure that stops happening? Thank you so much!

It may not need waterproofing. If its just a little bit of water. Revamping your gutters may do the trick. Stand on the side of the house that the water is coming in, and simply look for low points in the yard, around the house, are your gutters dropping water at least 4′ from the house? Are the gutters clogged?

Is there a hill that runs water towards your house? The solution of excavating can be expensive. I wouldn’t recommend waterproofing from the inside, because the water is still coming in the walls, you then need to install a pump to pump it back out. If that bedroom is in the basement.

If that bedroom is on a first floor or second floor. You will need to look at the fascia, this is behind the gutter. Make sure the drip edge under the shingles overlaps the fascia and gutter
Also look at and roof valleys, chimney  and dormers above that bedroom, make sure water cannot penetrate the roofing.

Unfortunately I have not made it to Denver CO to collect business cards yet from local professionals. If you were in Iowa or Illinois I could take care of you.

Hope this helps.


Andy Love

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Is it worth the extra money to purchase a lifetime water heater? Why if they can produce a water heater that last forever, why is there water heaters on the market for 5 and 10 year warranty?

Well the lifetime water heater you are speaking of has a plastic liner that never rusts. What happens is the water will eat the side of  a metal water heater and rust it out. The plastic liner will never rust. There is a rod that screws into the top of the metal 6 year warranty water heater that is about 2-3 foot long, it’s called an Anode rod, and what the rod does is keeps the water attacking the Anode rod and keeps the water from corroding the sides of the tank. Now what they don’t want you to know is that water heaters can  last a really long time, by replaceing the Anode rod about every 4 years. They can make a light bulb last forever too, it’s just not good for the economy. So if you want to beat the system install the 6 yr water heater and replace the Anode rod every time you vote for a president. A 12 yr water heater will have two Anode rods to replace.  Great question.


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I am getting cold-drafts coming from the walls in my kitchen, specifically under the sink when I open my cabinets. When I place my hand on the walls in these areas, they’re very cold, so I know that there is some heat-loss occurring. I’ve seen some applications where “foam-insulation board” was placed against a wall inside a cabinet (for example underneath a kitchen-sink). I would like to try something like this, but would like to know the correct recommendation for this type of installation.Can you please offer me some insight on how to install this type of insulation, specifically how to attach it to the outside of an “existing” wall correctly? I know people choose to insulate these areas of their house using the foam-boards because I’ve seen it many times, however I just want to know how to properly attach this type of insulation to my existing walls in these areas of my kitchen. For example, should I try to locate the studs and just drill screws through the insulation against these walls, or is there another way to install these foam-boards that would be more appropriate for what I’m trying to accomplish? I’ve also heard of “foam-board adhesive,” but I wonder if this would be appropriate for attaching foam-board to the wall in my kitchen cabinet-spaces.Please provide me with some insight on this type of installation, if possible.Thank you.

What you are experiencing is because the walls themselves need insulated. Foam would surely help but your pluming at that kitchen sink will most likely freeze. The best way to start would be to call Mid American Energy 1-800-545-0562 for what’s called an energy audit. They will help pay for this work to be done. If you really want to take on yourself, check to see if you have wood siding or vinyl siding. Vinyl can be removed easier. Remove the siding and drill a 1 inch hole. Then purchase blow in cellulose from Menards and request there free blower rental with wall attachment. You will need to drill holes about every 16 inches, at approx 7 foot up the siding. This is a two person job. Have one guy feed the blower and one guy blow the cellulose in the pockets.

Here is a helpful video.,,20047052,00.html 

Andy Love

Shredded mozzarella cheese in discover more right over here an ungreased 9 x 13 pan, spread a thin layer of meat sauce

Can you recommend a floor for my kitchen and bathroom that will not fail around water. I currently have Pergo, it\’s a false wood laminate plank that snaps together, and it is peeling apart.

Hello, I am familiar with the Pergo and other wood laminate products, unfortunately these products don’t hold up well around moisture.  Your best products are Ceramic, that can be expensive but will give you the richest look. another product that is currently outselling ceramic is a product called Dura Ceramic, or Congoleum Ovations, this product looks just like ceramic but solves every problem that goes along with ceramic. 1st is that ceramics finish height can be as much as 1 inch higher that Dura Ceramic which you have to watch for doors swinging into that room (they may need to be shaved down). 2nd the Dura Ceramic is not as cold as real ceramic. 3rd the grout that you use with the floor is a poly grout that resist staining like regular sanded grout. 4th is that Dura Ceramic is a floating floor, so years down the road if you want to change it you won’t need a sledge hammer to demo it out. and 5th and final the Dura Ceramic lays faster that conventional Ceramic. It is just as expensive as Ceramic though. Also on the market are products like Shaw’s Array that gives a wood look but won’t fail when it gets wet. A more economical floor for those areas with high moisture would be a regular sheet vinyl.

Hope this helps,

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