Category Archives: Insullation

I am getting cold-drafts coming from the walls in my kitchen, specifically under the sink when I open my cabinets. When I place my hand on the walls in these areas, they’re very cold, so I know that there is some heat-loss occurring. I’ve seen some applications where “foam-insulation board” was placed against a wall inside a cabinet (for example underneath a kitchen-sink). I would like to try something like this, but would like to know the correct recommendation for this type of installation.Can you please offer me some insight on how to install this type of insulation, specifically how to attach it to the outside of an “existing” wall correctly? I know people choose to insulate these areas of their house using the foam-boards because I’ve seen it many times, however I just want to know how to properly attach this type of insulation to my existing walls in these areas of my kitchen. For example, should I try to locate the studs and just drill screws through the insulation against these walls, or is there another way to install these foam-boards that would be more appropriate for what I’m trying to accomplish? I’ve also heard of “foam-board adhesive,” but I wonder if this would be appropriate for attaching foam-board to the wall in my kitchen cabinet-spaces.Please provide me with some insight on this type of installation, if possible.Thank you.

What you are experiencing is because the walls themselves need insulated. Foam would surely help but your pluming at that kitchen sink will most likely freeze. The best way to start would be to call Mid American Energy 1-800-545-0562 for what’s called an energy audit. They will help pay for this work to be done. If you really want to take on yourself, check to see if you have wood siding or vinyl siding. Vinyl can be removed easier. Remove the siding and drill a 1 inch hole. Then purchase blow in cellulose from Menards and request there free blower rental with wall attachment. You will need to drill holes about every 16 inches, at approx 7 foot up the siding. This is a two person job. Have one guy feed the blower and one guy blow the cellulose in the pockets.

Here is a helpful video.

www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/m/video/0,,20047052,00.html 

Andy Love

This past year I replaced my furnace with a high efficiency model andremoved my chimney to free up some space in other parts of the house. Tovent my hot water heater a contractor used some sort of pipe and vented itthrough the roof. I am now noticing a ton of icicles on that side of theroof that have never been there in the past. I also had the roof/atticinsulated last year, so i do not believe that is what is causing the ice. Isthere any way to insulate the hot water heater exhaust pipe to eliminate themelting snow and ice?thank

What I would do is look through your access hole and see where the hot air could be getting through. While the class B piping they used for the water heater could be contributing to the problem, I doubt that it’s a whole lot.  Also see if there is missing insulation around the pipe as it penetrates the ceiling. But most of all look at the access hole itself, that little 2×3 area should have insulation on it as well. Another thing to look at is the bathroom vent (if you have one) make sure it’s venting through the roof and not directly into the attic. Heat is escaping somewhere, hope this helps.

Sincerely, Andy Love

I would like to weatherproof my home to reduce my utility bill and make it more comfortable to live in. I have no idea where to start. I\’m sure insulation will be somewhere near the top of the list but there are so many options; blown in cellulose or fiberglass, faced or unfaced fiberglass bats, heat barriers. How do I know whats right for my home.I have a limited budget so it\’s important that I do the things that are going to give me the biggest bang for my buck.

I can understand your confusion there are so many things that can effect your utility bill.
Insulation can be effective but it will have little effect if you have an air infiltration problem caused by a worn or defective window, door or a water or electrical line coming into your home that is not properly sealed. A drafty window may not need replacement it may simply need caulked.
To ensure you get the biggest bang for you buck have a professional energy audit completed. Many companies offer
audits at no cost. For a fee you can get a more complete audit that may include a thermal imaging camera or a fan
placed in a doorway to check for air infiltration into your home.
Start out with a free audit and see where that takes you.

What would you recommend for insulation in 6-inch walls? I would like to use a material that is not harmful to the environment during the production and installation,and eventually could be reused if necessary.

I highly recommend Cellulose insulation. Cellulose, is made from recycled newspapers, and is densely packed between studs on new construction homes. Cellulose is made from recycled wood fiber of news print … primarily newspaper. Ever see stacks of newspaper in people’s garage and wonder why they are saving them? They are one of the big reasons we have cellulose. One hundred pounds of cellulose insulation contains 80 to 85 pounds of recycled newsprint. The remainder is made up of Borax and Boric acid, both non-toxic fire retardants and helps with mold resistance. This is a truly “green” product in my opinion, I don’t know if it is recognized by LEED. The demand for this must stay up or recycling itself could go to the curbside. I had breakfast with Dewey from Dewco Insulation the other day, and he does nothing but blown in Cellulose. After talking with him, it sounds like demand is up, right now. If you choose cellulose insulation you help solve the waste disposal problem and help fight air pollution. Not to mention it’s cheaper than fiberglass. This may help your community hold down taxes or refuse disposal charges. It certainly contributes to a cleaner environment.

We are thinking of having our attic and walls insulated with the blown in insulation. Do you recommend anyone?

Hold the phone! Before you get the work done, have Mid America evaluate your home for energy efficiency. Based on your situation you can receive up to 70% rebate back. So, say your estimate for insulation comes back at $1,000, Mid America will rebate back $700. I am in the process of having my home done, and they are currently scheduling for October. Call 1-800-545-0762 for Mid Americas evaluation, and call Gary Mascho with Mascho’s Insulation, to give you a bid on your house. Very nice guy and very reasonably priced. Thanks, great question, Andy Love Ask the Expert